Climbing

Climbing in Arenzano

Thanks to the alternation of stretches rich in vegetation and rocky ridges and overhanging walls, in Arenzano it is possible to practice climbing, trying out some easy rope pulls. Rock climbing walls excellent for learning to climb, with a splendid view of the sea into the Beigua Park.

Climbings

    Rocca Turchina

    Approach

    From Arenzano, take the Aurelia to Cogoleto, turn right to the Val Lerone industrial area and continue towards Argentea agritourism. Park the car and walk along a grassy track that goes up to the right (way marker ▲). It immediately climbs up with a few bends, then goes around a wood and, leaving the path to Monte Argentea on the right (way marker ☆), enters the Rio di Lerca valley. Continue with a steady climb, until, before the dirt track begins to descend, you leave this to take a nice mule track on the right (always follow way marker ▲), which continues to climb through woods and stony ground. After the first stream, the path makes another steep climb and then reaches the bed of the small Rio Cinè, now in sight of the “Cresta delle Segàge” (0.50 h). After crossing the stream, you leave the mule track to begin the steep grassy slope. Following the precious stone cairns and the discontinuous traces of passage, you climb up the rugged valley (almost a gully) between the “Cresta delle Segàge” (on the left) and the “Costa della Botte “(on the right), both bristling with towers and spikes rocky. The climb is really steep, but the track helps: after passing a small stony ground, you go up to the left of a rock almost to the head of the valley. Go up a grassy ramp to the right towards a slab bordered by two long dihedrals; without reaching the base of the slab, turn right on a comfortable grassy ledge. Follow the ledge to the right for a few meters, up to the foot of a rocky spur on which you can recognize the bolts (start at a small rocky cavity with belay cord h 0,40 from Rio Cinè).

    Note

    Total time 5,00h of which 2 hours of climbing.
    Difficulty AD (III + one step IV) great for learning to climb, beautiful sea view.
    Altitude: 650 m
    Altitude approach: 500 m
    Climbing development: 160 m
    Maximum grade 4
    Obligatory difficulty 4
    Starting point Campo

    Description

    • It starts up steep but clinging rocks (IV °), then moves over an edge to the left and climbs up a nice vertical slab (III ° +) up to a comfortable grassy ledge (stop on a tree);
    • Climb a short cracked wall (III ° +), then follow a ridge of large stones (II °) up to a comfortable landing;
    • You climb a first slab (III ° +) then, beyond a small grassy ledge, continue on another slab (III ° + and III °) up to a subsequent ledge. You pass a vertical wall (IV °), beyond which you go up a steep grassy slope between two large stones up to the wide ledge that divides the wall at about 2/3 in height (stop on a tree 45m);
    • The large upper slab is attacked, passing between two small trees: after a first fairly compact section (III °), the rock becomes a little grassy (II °) up to a third small tree where it stops;
    • The last pitch takes place along the edge of an aerial rock that reaches directly to the summit (III ° and II °).
      At the exit, a comfortable flat spike allows excellent anchoring. With a few steps to the left you will reach the top of the Rocca Turchina (822 m, about 2.00 h from the start of 30 meters).

    Descent

    Follow the easy north-east ridge to Monte Argentèa, then descend a steep grassy slope to the path below (way marker ☆). Follow it to the right, downhill. You reach a crossroads (Guà dell'Omü): go down to the left until you cross the "Engineer's Path". Follow it for about 200 m to the right, then take again a track marked ☆ which descends sharply in the steep pine forest. You come out on the cart track, at the point where it enters the valley of the Rio di Lerca: going down the last hairpin bends, you will soon return to Campo (1.15 h from the top).

    Source: gulliver.it

    Scarpeggin Falesia

    Approach

    From the Genova-Ventimiglia motorway, turn right and, after about 300 m, turn right again, after passing the hospital you reach Terralba. Here you take Via Pecorara on the left (immediately after a pharmacy) which climbs steeply to the north. 
    At a crossroads, go uphill to the right, following the signs for “Centro ornitologico - case Vaccà” up to Pian del Curlo where you can leave your car.
    From here, take the uphill cart track, pass Case Vacca and continue on the path to the right (way marker two red stamps); it reaches the horizontal path (way marker A red). In 10 minutes, when you reach the top of the ridge, you can see the refuge and the climbing area with the sea underneath. Total time 30-40'.

    Description

    Climbing area, recently equipped by C.A.I. Ligurian, it is ideal for climbing and rope exercises. A small alpine refuge is at the base of the wall. Climbing routes of medium difficulty. The routes are all with the maximum grade given by one or two passes, the rest on the fourth.

    Source: gulliver.it

    Rocca dell'Erxo: Via Ni.Pa. (Nino Parodi)

    Approach

    From the Genova-Ventimiglia motorway, turn right and, after about 300 m, turn right again, after passing the hospital you reach Terralba. Here you take Via Pecorara on the left (immediately after a pharmacy) which climbs steeply to the north.
    At a crossroads, go uphill to the right, following the signs for “Centro Ornitologico - case Vaccà” up to Pian del Curlo where you can leave your car.
    From here, take the uphill cart track, pass Case Vacca and continue on the path to the right (way marker two red stamps); it reaches the horizontal path (way marker A red). In 10 minutes, when you reach the top of the ridge, you can see the refuge and the climbing area with the sea underneath.

    Beyond the Scarpeggin, the track follows the head of a wide valley, then you leave on the left the track directed to Passo della Gavetta (way marker V), to continue on path A. Passing under the high voltage pylon, you reach a small ridge, where the start of the route is located near a rocky pillar, indicated by a large stone marker on the right and a bolt on the plate on the left (h 1.15 from Curlo).

    Description

    Almost all the shots can be safely taken in preserves, given the relative ease of passing.

    Descent

    Follow the path marked “●●” to the clearly visible Passo della Gavetta (0.15 h from the top). Following the path marked with the "V" to the left, you return to the path "A" and, through the alpine refuge Scarpeggìn, back to Agueta (0.40 h from the pass).

    Source: gambeinspalla.org

    Argentea (monte) Speroni EST

    Approach

    • Walking from Arenzano through Pian del Curlo (292 m) and Passo della Gava, with the path marked with 3 red stamps you reach the alpine refuge of the Fasciun spring (973 m.). From the small building, heading west, follow the path (way marker 3 point red) on the stony ground towards Collettassa.

    • By car from Arenzano, you reach the Turchino pass and take the SP73 provincial road towards the Faiallo pass. Close to the hotel "La Nuvola sul Mare" begins the path of the Alta Via dei Monti Liguri. Following the markers you arrive at the Vaccaria pass, continue south / west on the wide panoramic ridge. Once you reach the Cima Pian di Lerca, where the Argentea refuge stands, there are two possibilities to reach the low rock:

    1) towards the south you descend to a hollow at an altitude of 940 (Collettassa), towards the east the path (3 red stamps) leads to the stony ground.
    2) it descends to the source of the Fasciun (alpine refuge), from which, towards the west, you follow the path (3 red stamps) that crosses the stony ground towards Collettassa.

    Description

    Beautiful athletic and panoramic climbing with rocks, anchors and bolted routes.

    Argentea (monte) Cresta Lerbin

    Approach

    From Arenzano go up towards the industrial area and the hamlet of Campo. At the point where the asphalt road ends, leave the car and follow the dirt road for a few meters, take the path (way marker white star) and follow for about 40 minutes until you reach a signpost where you can leave the way marker white star and, in false floor, east-northeast direction, continue towards Rio Lerbin. Pass it until you meet a wooden bench where the ridge leading to Collettassa begins, and, if you wish, continue to the summit.

    Description

    Very simple ridge maximum third grade, easy and scholastic, very pleasant in winter or late autumn with a breathtaking view of the gulf. Descent: entirely on the white star path

    Source: gulliver.it

    Scagiun da Lelua

    Approach

    Exiting the Arenzano motorway (A-10) take the direction of Cogoleto (SS1), when you reach the seafront turn right (SP78), follow the provincial road, skirting a golf course on the left, enter the town of Sciarborasca; turn right into via al Piano at the restaurant "In sciu Punte and continue for 300m." Near a sharp curve to the right (which goes around a yellow house), take a very narrow road on the left, which after a while will lead you to the aqueduct tank where you can park. Follow the red diamond way marker to Mount Rama for a short distance. At the second sign indicating the climbing wall, you leave the path to go down towards the river and then go up to the Scagiun. Approach time from the car park about 20 minutes.

    Description

    Superb environment, splendid panorama.
    Due to the variety of routes this wall is suitable for everyone, beginners and experts.
    The various sectors allow climbing throughout the year. In summer, the late afternoon is preferable.
    N. Routes: 27
    Difficulty: 3a / 7b
    Height: 100 mt.

    Source: falesia.it

    Costa dei guadi

    Approach

    After the Negrone bridge, continue to the right, following the way marker I: "Sentiero dell'Ingegnere", a path from the end of the 19th century built to bring drinking water to coastal towns. After crossing the river, on the left a short climb in the woods leads to the wild gorge of the Rio Cû du Mundu: white markers indicate the ascent route in the gorge, however reserved for expert mountaineers (3rd grade passages). Beyond the mouth of the gorge, the path begins to go up, with a long series of hairpin bends, Costa du Môu, between rocks and woods. This leads to the point where, on the right, a branch marked C5 originates: follow this other path: First cross the Rio du Môu at a waterfall and, after a few minutes, the more impetuous Rio dei Guadi. You start to climb on the other side, and you reach the top of the Costa Guadi ridge: a wooden arrow on the left ("panoramic bench") and a red writing on a boulder ("Rio dei Guadi") indicate the point where leave the path. Climb up a barely visible track to the left, exiting in the small clearing where the beautiful alpine refuge Sambuco stands. At the opposite end of the clearing, continue along vague tracks that go up diagonally through the wood to reach a grassy saddle. Continue for a few tens of meters along a track halfway up the coast, in a very slight climb, then leave it and go up the steep wooded slope to the right that allows you to reach the base of the rocks of the Costa dei Guadi. Go up a short grassy gully between the rocks until you reach the saddle to which it leads (stone cairn). The start of the ridge begins on the left. (1.00 h from Ponte Negrone).

    Description

    Nice climb, easy but very interesting and panoramic Passes of II, III,  IV and IV+ degree, with exposed sections and panoramic views of the wild Vallone dei Guadi, where the river falls with spectacular waterfalls. The passages are largely not required, but in the upper part of the crest there is a certain elegance of lines. The rock is almost everywhere good. the section of IV ° / IV ° + is easily bypassed.

    Climbing time 2.00 h from the start. 

    Like almost all itineraries of this type, frequent in the Beigua Group, the difficulties vary greatly depending on the ascent lines chosen, being almost never the obligatory route. In the first part of the street there are some small stone cairns.

    Descent

    Follow path A to the right, first slightly uphill, then flat. Cross the Rio da Zinzæa, meet the detachment to the right of the "Sentiero di Rocca Spaccà" (wooden way marker, 0.30 h from the end of the road). Go down this path, which reaches the Rocca Spaccà, a large rock engraved by a deep cleft. Beyond this characteristic passage, you continue the steep descent into the dense forest until you reach the wide path C2 which you follow to the right; cross the Rio da Zinzæa (water pipe) again and you will soon reach the detachment of path C5. Then go down sharply to the left, along the path way marker C2, to Passu du Figu, and from here to Ponte Negrone and to the car through the Bosco del Castagno.

    Note

    Total time 5.15 - 5.45 h (of which 2.00 h for climbing depending on the chosen itinerary. Difference in altitude about 700 m (of which about 250 m climbing). Useful equipment helmet, possibly 30 m rope. Recommended period from autumn to spring (avoiding too cold or windy days).
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